I have a Miller wire feeder that can use CO2 gas for shielding. I think I spent like $1200.00 on it.
I know that's a bit pricy but it works fairly well. Not as well as the $2,000.00 units I used for work but those ones require other equipment to run them so it's more thousands of dollars.
If you want to go super cheap just start off with a simple Lincoln welder. The old ones can be had for around $100.00 off of Craig's list. They run off of 240v. You'll need to install an outlet for it in your garage. Usually breaker boxes are located on the side of your garage so clear a space inside your garage as close to the breaker box as possible and run a circuit into your garage.
If you go to home depot you can pick up an instruction book on how to do it properly. It's actually very simple to do this.
Then you'll need to get a hood and some welding gloves. A four inch angle grinder is a must have thing. You can get 1/8th inch cutter wheels, 1/4th inch grinder wheels and some flapper wheels to smooth out stuff for painting.
A torch kit with a cutting head is a good investment but you can live without it. Find an Airgas distributer near you and look around in their lobby for any other stuff you think you might need. They have more stuff than Home Depot or Lowes and you can rent oxygen and acetylene tanks as well as CO2 tanks if you opt for a wire feeder.
The thing is with a wire feeder, you'll need to learn how to run the thing. The cheap ones like I have work ok but sometimes have issues you need to trouble shoot. Always make sure you use the proper size tip for the wire gun. If it's too small a diameter the wire won't go through. If it's too large and or you don't put the proper rollers in the wire will jam all the time. They come with a set of rollers you need to install depending on the size wire you run. For those cheap wire feeders you really can only run the .035 wire effectively. I don't care what the manual says, the machine really only runs the smallest wire available.
Mine can run off 240 or 120. It also runs welding rods and has settings for TIG welding, so someone who is very creative and wants to try various processes, it would be a great starter.
Who knows, you may really like welding so maybe you should keep your options for home use open.
But then, learning by starting with stick welding is really the best place to start and here's why: Stick welding is a slower process and easier to control and learn. There's no technical issues involved other than setting your current properly and there's books you can pick up at Home Depot to help you with that.
You can go on youtube and watch tutorials on welding so there's that. Not as good as having someone like me to coach you first hand but it helps. I can do small projects with concrete simply because I started watching videos and learned from the pros to improve my techniques. Sure, I can't do big projects professionally but I've had people stop by and praise my work as being better than a city contractor so I'm jazzed about that.
Another thing about stick welding is, since it's a slower process you can actually see how the puddle reacts as the bead forms and get a better feel for what's happening.
The problem with a wire feeder for a newbie is that I'd worry that they might feel overwhelmed by the machine and issues that would come up and frustrate them. Then the damn thing will just gather dust in the garage. However, if like mine you have multiple functions then you can just use the same machine for stick welding. When you've got that down you can head down to Airgas and pick up a tank of gas and switch over to wire feed. If you're good with machines, then it won't be a problem to set it.
Hope I helped you but I can't just tell you what machine exactly to get as I don't know you well enough to say for sure.
Another thing you might want to consider is where your steel you will be using comes from. Thing I love about steel is that often times, it's just laying about not being used and readily available. I've used odd bits of steel by cutting, grinding and repurposing in ways the average guy wouldn't even think of just because I can weld.
For instance, old steel bed frames that go under a box mattress. That stuff is wonderful steel. It's harder than mild steel, flexible, welds up fine, easy to cut with a grinder and has many uses. Imagine how many times people just toss that stuff in a dumpster because they have no use for it.
Right now I am looking for an old bed frame to create a stand for a barbecue grill I am making. I have one already but by my measurements, I need a couple more. I just grind off the rivets and cut to length. Easy peasy.
At my Grandpa's trailer I used the frame under another old trailer house I had yanked out and welded up the support for a redwood deck for him. For that I used 6013 1/8 welding rod and an old Lincoln stick welder even though I had my wire feeder there. No need setting up the wire feeder and paying for gas when stick welding was fine and much cheaper to use. The small cylinders for my wire feeder run about 70 bucks. BTW, when they are empty you just trade them in for a full cylinder. You never buy cylinders as they are always just traded for a fresh one. Airgas likes to pretend you are renting the cylinders but there's no monthly charge. Recently they sent me a notice about my cylinder cause I've had it almost a year and haven't finished using it up. No charge, just a reminder I have it. LOL. They're keeping check.
BTW, I love your idea about being able to choose your foreman.
I was on one job where I got into it with my foreman for telling jokes at the safety meeting. I didn't like it that we arrived for the safety meeting and are standing there listening to his dumb ass jokes while we are standing in the cold and dark. WTF dude? I am thinking. So he fired me and then another foreman on the same job said, "ah man, you can come work for me.". LOL. Pissed the other foreman off but who cares. I think what I said to the Joker foreman was, "If you're gonna tell us lame jokes for half an hour I'm gonna go set up, we have work to do". I started walking off to the job site and he went off. Some sense of humor right? Only laughs at his own jokes, when he should have been proud of me. The other foreman was a much nicer guy.
Hey, if you're really serious about learning to weld on your own and have questions in the future feel free to hit me up, OK? I don't mind helping out at all, in fact, I love it. Just get a welding machine ok? That's number one project for you right now.
I'm semi-serious, it's a skill I figure I need to learn, but it's probably a bit down the list after moving to a country and getting land to build a house. I like your advice about starting simple with stick welding. I've done a bit of soldering before so maybe that'll help? I've no idea if molten steel and tin work in completely different ways. If you're still on here when I get around to it I'd absolutely love advice. Nothing like having someone who knows what they're talking about when you're starting something new.
Concrete's another one I'll have to learn actually. I figure I'll need that one along with basic welding for building a house. I know Americans like to build light houses out of wood, but personally I like something a bit sturdier. It's good for insulation in very hot/cold climates too. If you look at places like Spain or Greece their houses are always thick stone or concrete and they're nice and cool in the summer.
As for American habit of using spruce for framing, as an American, I totally agree with you. It's just plain foolish. They are building houses out of termite food and then several years down the road are calling an exterminator. Some parts of a house I can see using wood, such as trusses for roof tiling but even that has other solutions. I've watched hundreds of videos showcasing novel construction to ancient construction and I much prefer concrete over wood and stone rather than concrete. What lasts longer than stone? Nothing.
I think American's got into wood frame homes as the country expanded from east to west and there was massive push for more housing, quickly and cheaply. I see all sorts of shoddy house construction on West Coast and believe me, they are paying the price now with repairs and reconstruction. Sad situation.
Some of my relatives in Nebraska built a straw house back around early 1900s and it's still standing, still warm in winter and cool in summer. So, even straw is better than wood.
What gets me is that at very least they could treat the wood with termite solution before covering it. I built a shed for a customer with two by six roof and four by four upright posts and believe me, since he had a termite problem on his property I soaked all the wood in termite solution. I know the bugs will never eat that toxic stuff.
Yes, since you wish to start simple, I agree, go with a stick welding machine.
Here's a machine near me I just saw: https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/tls/d/loma-linda-in-inverter-welder-machine/7268019600.html
Dang. These guys are selling so cheap I may jump on this one just because it's so cheap. I can't help myself. I know what it's really worth so, what's up? It's minutes away and I can get a ride there and pick it up. Resell it for a profit or sell the one I have. Maybe just try it out to compare performance.
For me, just anything I can imagine in my mind I can cut, grind, fit up and weld so long as I have a welding machine.
In answer to your question, soldering, say like copper pipes or wires maybe be similar in idea but what's going on is two totally different processes.
In soldering you use a low melting solder metal onto a different metal to join surfaces. The solder as it melts makes a molecular bond with the copper. The copper remains as it is as does the solder. The two don't mix.
With welding, you are using a filler metal that's similar in composition to the base metal of the two parts you are going to join. The base metal does melt, mixes with the filler metal to cool and harden. Essentially, you join the two parts and now they are one.
The weld bead that forms crystalizes from the molten metal and so is a bit different but basically is more or less the same metal. If you cut through a welded plate, polish and then etch the cross section you can usually see the cross section of the weld material as the acid will eat away some of the metal and reveal the difference in grain pattern. It's quite interesting to do this. As a professional welder they have me do a few test plates to certify me for a given job I go on. They don't go to the trouble of etching the cross section but often they cut a strip out through the weld and then do a bend test. If the weld is good there won't be flaws in the steel, I've passed and can start work. If it's defective the weld will either break or reveal defects that stretch open. If it's a small defect they will pass it anyway. Also they look for uniformity of the weld, edges smoothly blended into the parts that are welded together and no porosity or bubbles in the weld or undercut. Any of those sorts of obvious defects will be a rejection and I can't work.
Really sir, just look on craig's list or ebay and get a machine. The one I showed you is good for all home process and would be fun to use.
Say there are deer where you are, you can go get the black pipe, cut and weld it together and make a guard for your pick up.
There's so many things you can do with metal.
With proper gas you can weld even stainless steel wire.
Or, just adjust the settings and weld with your stick welding rig that comes with it. Seriously, I just went to look and see what's out there and saw that welding machine. I am so jacked up to swoop on it before someone gets it. Do I need it? Not really, but I want it.
When you wake up tomorrow morning, have a cup of coffee and some breakfast then go online to look for a machine. Don't stop until you are driving home with your new machine, some gloves and a welding hood. Stop by your neighbors and beg them for scrap steel then start having fun. You can start practicing by burning rods on any bit of steel until you can lay down a nice weld bead, straight and even. Practice on at least 1/4 inch steel plate. When one side is full, turn it over. When that's full weld across your old beads. When that plate is an inch thick, by then you will be doing ok.
Yes, I went to weld school for six months, sat for an hour every day in class with five hours of shop time practicing but you can do all that at home for just the cost of the rods and the power to run your machine.
Also I cheated like a thief. After class was over and the next class came in, I snuck back in with the next class and would hang out in the shop cutting coupons from steel plates. I cut dozens and dozens. Kids would line up and I would let them take what ever they wanted. People got to thinking I was maybe staff or something? No one asked questions. When traffic would die down and kids were all quietly welding I would sneak into a spare booth and tack my coupons into test plates then stack them up into my locker. After that I would go back to my stolen booth and weld my ass off for another five hours or so.
See, here's my theory. On a job I would be working eight to twelve hours a day and getting paid well. Ok. so can I hack welding ten hours a day? Sure I can. I got so I would go to sleep thinking of welding nice beads. At the end of six months when we had our final certification test I'm in there welding for the Los Angeles certification for plates that will be x-rayed, cut and bent. Vertical seam, horizontal, and overhead. All three prime test positions and I was like, ho hum, glad it's test day and I can hurry up and get this over with and have the rest of the day off.
Another student came by and was watching me. The other students were in a panic, stressed out and I was completely calm, focused and just welding out my plates like any other day. He asked me how I could be so calm and I told him what I had been doing for six months. Taking my class like it's a job rather than goofing off, making jokes, playing pranks and relaxing.
Anyway, once you can make nice beads "downhand" meaning flat on a work bench, then you are ready to make beads horizontal. After that I strongly suggest making beads in vertical position. You'll need this as some objects can't be turned.
Overhead you won't need unless you are welding professionally but it's worth knowing how to do it so save it for last.
Some tips on technique:
If you are using 7018 1/8th welding rods (I hope you are since it's the most standard go to rod for most applications) you will set your machine around 125 volts. You drag your rod a bit to start the arc and then hope it doesn't stick and short out. The hard part for a beginner is getting that arc started. Once it starts burning you can relax a bit and for me, I just slightly drag the rod on the surface, letting the flux touch a bit and as the rod burns down, gradually moving it to continue the path of the bead. You want a nice convex profile. Not too much spatter and not humped up too much. If the bead is ropy and standing up, you're running it too cold. If it's making lots of spatter and too flat with the rod burning up real fast, it's too hot.
My rule of thumb for stick is to set it to burn a vertical bead without digging into the base metal too much or dripping down. If I can do that, it's running just right. You can go a bit hotter for a downhand bead. Horizontal beads can be run a bit cooler with vertical even cooler. Overhead you can run almost as hot as down hand.
For your welding hood running stick welding, I strongly suggest at least a number 11 lens. I go with number 12 and that provides better eye protection. People who use number 10 tend to have a short career as their eyes go bad. Sucks to be them cause it's a joy to see the pretty ladies. I'd miss all that.
The filter lens I prefer is the plastic gold lens. It's the best. You get nice color representation and can see the heat of the metal as you weld. You can even make out the flux cooling on the surface of your bead.
The cheap green lens I hate because I hate looking at a green view all day as I weld.
Some people purchase an auto lens that darkens automatically. For me, the expense is not worth the hassle when the things fail and suddenly you are looking straight into an arc with no protection. On a job if the thing fails and you are miles from town, you're screwed unless the boss can help you out.
Get cover lens to protect your filter lens. I place a plastic cover lens in front and behind the filter lens to protect it and then a third cover lens in the helmet behind my flip lens. The cover lens get scratched up if you work all day and I generally change them out at start of shift. If you are careful you can use a filter lens for months before having to replace it.
Something odd about the gold cover lens. I left one on my dash for months as I didn't need it. The sun some how eroded all the gold. I have no idea how that might be. Mystery to be solved.
Happy welding to you, cheers.
Yeah, I can totally see why wood framed homes are a good cheap solution for pioneers and settlers, but it's kinda become a bad habit. Over here wood is scarce and expensive so it only gets used for joists and ceiling frames. Straw/cobb houses used to be popular back three generations ago but only hippies build them now. They're excellent technology and can last for centuries, but they do require a lot of care to keep the foundations and roof dry. Stone has it's ups and downs, it looks beautiful, but it's expensive and can be draughty (depending on the mortar, stone houses need to breathe).
Dang. These guys are selling so cheap I may jump on this one just because it's so cheap. I can't help myself. I know what it's really worth so, what's up? It's minutes away and I can get a ride there and pick it up. Resell it for a profit or sell the one I have. Maybe just try it out to compare performance.
Grandad died and the kids are emptying the garage :P
When you wake up tomorrow morning, have a cup of coffee and some breakfast then go online to look for a machine. Don't stop until you are driving home with your new machine, some gloves and a welding hood. Stop by your neighbors and beg them for scrap steel then start having fun. You can start practicing by burning rods on any bit of steel until you can lay down a nice weld bead, straight and even. Practice on at least 1/4 inch steel plate. When one side is full, turn it over. When that's full weld across your old beads. When that plate is an inch thick, by then you will be doing ok.
You're a bad influence sir! I live in a single room apartment full of all kinds of tools. I keep buying more even though I really should be lightening my load to move country. Some deals are hard to pass up.
For your welding hood running stick welding, I strongly suggest at least a number 11 lens. I go with number 12 and that provides better eye protection. People who use number 10 tend to have a short career as their eyes go bad. Sucks to be them cause it's a joy to see the pretty ladies. I'd miss all that.
Hmmm, good advice. My eyes aren't great to begin with and my ears are awful, so I can't afford to play around with that stuff.
The filter lens I prefer is the plastic gold lens. It's the best. You get nice color representation and can see the heat of the metal as you weld. You can even make out the flux cooling on the surface of your bead.
That's interesting, is it literally gold foil laminated onto the plastic? I would've thought that would make everything blue.
Something odd about the gold cover lens. I left one on my dash for months as I didn't need it. The sun some how eroded all the gold. I have no idea how that might be. Mystery to be solved.
That is curious. It can't be UV surely: I'd imagine the arc is emitting way harder frequencies than sunlight.
Happy welding to you, cheers.
Thanks
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