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I want to make a functional equivalent to this: https://prowin.net/de/produkt/backofen-und-grillreiniger

It's a hard base soap that you paint on the blackish-brownish residue that builds up on surfaces that are exposed to heat and fat. Works great but is expensive as frig!

Want to make my own and already have the KOH, glycerine is on order.

Has anyone ever done did this and has tips on the process side of things?

I want to make a functional equivalent to this: https://prowin.net/de/produkt/backofen-und-grillreiniger It's a hard base soap that you paint on the blackish-brownish residue that builds up on surfaces that are exposed to heat and fat. Works great but is expensive as frig! Want to make my own and already have the KOH, glycerine is on order. Has anyone ever done did this and has tips on the process side of things?
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[–] • 1 pt (edited )

When you add the caustic to a fat, it saponifies and you make soap. Oven cleaners in these parts are typically lye based (sodium hydroxide), though potassium hydroxide and ammonium hydroxide (aqueous ammonia) are also used. Your cleaner will be stronger if you just use a solution of caustic on the oven surfaces. However you need to be aware that caustics are typically very reactive with aluminum, brass, etc. Cast iron and steel are not reactive - or are very minimally so - to sodium hydroxide. I would assume this would hold true with potassium and ammonium hydroxides as well. I would verify their suitability on stainless steel and enameled steel similar to oven surfaces.

Fun fact: The reason lye works so well as an oven cleaner is that most of the burned on crap has at least a small fat content. The lye turning that to soap is the main cleaning process. If it's burnt on carbon with no fat, those oven cleaners won't do anything - takes elbow grease at that point. And a scraper.

Your products's ingredients:

AQUA POTASSIUM HYDROXIDES CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL GLUCOSIDES POTASSIUM ACRYLATES COPOLYMER PERFUME D-LIMONENE SODIUM GLUCONATES SODIUM LAURETH SULFATES COLORANT

Not seeing any fats or fatty acids, so uncertain why you're using glycerin. If the desire is for a jelling agent to help it stick to surfaces, maybe a vegetable gel or pectin might work? Short of that, I'd just use straight caustic solution on a rag. Be sure to wear gloves.

Edit - Knowledge sources: Mrs. Duck makes soap. I use caustic solutions to remove build up on cast iron cookware pieces when I clean and restore them.

[–] • 1 pt

Excellent reply and great in depth info! I thought the glycerin was a prerequisite for making any kind of soap. Ideally, I'd like it to have a gel like consistency so it sticks to and stays on vertical surfaces. I guess that's what the copolymer in the store bought stuff is for. It is meant to be brushed on. Anything organic like pectin will probably be broken down instantly by the KOH, more research seems to be in order.

Thank you and Mrs. Duck :)

[–] • 1 pt

I thought the glycerin was a prerequisite for making any kind of soap.

At it's simplest, soap can be made with a fat and caustic. Glycerin is a fat and will work, but you can also use lard, beef tallow, coconut oil, olive oil, cocoa butter - or the baked on greasy crap in your oven or on your stove top. Try using a little KOH solution on a rag for starters. You may find you need a thickener to get it to stick to vertical surfaces and soak in, but it should at least start to loosen and maybe remove the built up crud if you add a little pressure while wiping it.