Thank goodness for all the YouTube shadetree mechanics who see fit to upload the procedure. Unlike many of them, I actually am certified to perform the work (universial refrigerant technician), but it's not what I do daily - and judging by some of the pains, good thing I don't! 1. A/C blowing no colder than 60°F. 2. Decide to work on it, finally, now that it's over 100°F outside... 3. Obtain specialized tools. 4. Diagnose problems with service manual. In my case there was a sufficiently helpful troubleshooting tree within, and my first indications (with some assumptions) was that the system was overcharged (which can make the A/C perform worse). This was the inability of the A/C to blow colder than 60°F (thermometer stuck into vent), high (discharge) & low (suction) sides (of compressor) pressures both higher than they should have been for the ambient Temp/Press. 5. Recover some refrigerant into recovery drum (this is the part that very few YouTube guys actually do... probably lost their charge or illegally vented it) and watch air temperature. Got down to 50°F at best, then rose again. 6. Assumptions were incorrect, possibly (that the orifice tube and/or TXV were not at fault). 7. Obtain new orifice tube and TXV. May as well replace both since to do so requires full R-134a recovery so you may as well pop them both in. 8. Recover remainder of refrigerant into recovery drum. 9. Pull down a vacuum on system with vacuum pump (may as well do this, out of curiosity, just to see if there was a leak before; no leak was indicated, not a surprise). 10. Take off all rear trim that covers rear evaporator coil and heater core. [This is a bitch](http://i.imgs.fyi/img/3g5o.jpg). 11. Attempt to disconnect [these bitch-ass rusted refrigerant supply/return fittings](http://i.imgs.fyi/img/3g5q.jpg) from evaporator, under the vehicle... which would have made replacing the TXV much easier. Fail. 12. Give up hope of a professional job and Dremel wrench access to the TXV's own fittings (shitty design IMO). 13. [Remove old TXV](http://i.imgs.fyi/img/3g5w.jpg). Don't even know if it was bad per se, but for the price just go ahead. 14. [Install new TXV](http://i.imgs.fyi/img/3g5u.jpg). 15. Move on to main A/C circuit's orifice tube, which performs the same function as the rear's TXV (Joule-Thompson expansion if you recall your thermo, drop T/P and get the refrigerant easy to evaporate). 16. [Disconnect fittings housing orifice tube](http://i.imgs.fyi/img/3g5z.jpg), center left. Orifice tube is in the foreground pipe, [as seen here](http://i.imgs.fyi/img/3g62.jpg) - the black plastic "x". 17. Camera ate the good/bad picture I had of my orifice tubes, but [this photo](http://i.imgs.fyi/img/3g63.jpg) is somewhat indicative. Mine was in no way in that bad of shape, but it did have some black non-sludgy debris. Not enough to make me think the tube was the culprit, but replaced nonetheless. 18. Button the system back up and [pull down a vacuum](http://i.imgs.fyi/img/3g65.jpg) of [at least 10" Hg](https://www.epa.gov/section608/required-level-evacuation-appliances). 19. Cool off inside and type this up while I wait. Already at 25" Hg which way way exceeds required, but you'd expect a tight system so it should hold that much in any case. 20. Recharge the recovered refrigerant into system using the vehicle's compressor. Recovery cylinder sits on a scale so I know when 4 lb. has been added. Never worked on vehicle A/C before. I'd do it again but it's not the kind of job I'd do for someone else!