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I have a tv room that's carpet on top of a concrete slab. The carpet needs to go!

This slab itself is an 8" step up from my entryway (not counting the existing carpet), which limits how thick of a floor I can put down without creating a tripping hazard. Because it's a concrete slab, anything I put down will need to include either a moisture barrier or tolerant of what little moisture floats up through any concrete slab.

I'm considering my options, but I'm out of the loop on new flooring options from this century. Let me know your thoughts and what I'm missing:

Carpet: Tearing carpet out of the rest of my house has done wonders for my allergies. I'm not putting in new carpet.

Tile: Looks nice, I can lay it myself, no need for moisture barrier, less of a step than the existing carpet. I'm concerned it'd be chilly in winter and make the tv echo, but maybe that's not a big deal when it's just a tile floor and the walls are drywalled.

Hardwood: Most of the house is hardwood on top a normal subfloor over a basement, but my gut check is that moisture barrier + plywood + hardwood is going to create a heck of a step up into the room.

*Engineered Wood: I've never worked with this. Isn't this just poor man's hardwood with the same need for moisture barriers and a plywood subfloor?

Laminate: Isn't this just even cheaper Engineered Wood with plastic on top?

Linoleum: Unless you routinely dismember guests while watching a movie, nobody needs linoleum in their tv room.

LVT: I've never worked with this stuff before. How does it hold up to moving furniture around/dog claws/etc?

I have a tv room that's carpet on top of a concrete slab. The carpet needs to go! This slab itself is an 8" step up from my entryway (not counting the existing carpet), which limits how thick of a floor I can put down without creating a tripping hazard. Because it's a concrete slab, anything I put down will need to include either a moisture barrier or tolerant of what little moisture floats up through any concrete slab. I'm considering my options, but I'm out of the loop on new flooring options from this century. Let me know your thoughts and what I'm missing: **Carpet**: Tearing carpet out of the rest of my house has done wonders for my allergies. I'm not putting in new carpet. **Tile**: Looks nice, I can lay it myself, no need for moisture barrier, less of a step than the existing carpet. I'm concerned it'd be chilly in winter and make the tv echo, but maybe that's not a big deal when it's just a tile floor and the walls are drywalled. **Hardwood**: Most of the house is hardwood on top a normal subfloor over a basement, but my gut check is that moisture barrier + plywood + hardwood is going to create a heck of a step up into the room. **Engineered Wood*: I've never worked with this. Isn't this just poor man's hardwood with the same need for moisture barriers and a plywood subfloor? **Laminate**: Isn't this just even cheaper Engineered Wood with plastic on top? **Linoleum**: Unless you routinely dismember guests while watching a movie, nobody needs linoleum in their tv room. **LVT**: I've never worked with this stuff before. How does it hold up to moving furniture around/dog claws/etc?

(post is archived)

[–] 3 pts (edited )

The engineered products exist specifically for two reasons. One, moisture. Two, wear layers. While real hardwood can be resurfaced, it's no small effort and very dirty to do so. Whereas the engineered products design in a wear layer. The lifetime of the product is determined by the thickness of that wear layer. Caution, some products distort (lie) about the actual thickness of their wear layer.

Hardwood flooring generally sucks in areas were water is likely; for example, kitchen, bathroom, and laundry room. Commonly this is why people use tile in these locations. Hardwood can rot, warp, and discolor. Whereas LVT is completely safe here.

If you're concerned about concrete moisture (vapor), you might want to take a test to determine just how much vapor you have coming up through your slab. If you have a lot of moisture coming up, there are products specifically designed to address this issue. It's called concrete vapor remediation. One such product I've applied requires resurfacing of the slab, manual grinding all areas within three inches of an edge, application of dissolved salts designed to close the newly opened concrete pores, followed by an epoxy layer which seals the surface. This treatment is commonly used in commercial and industrial settings (for example, applied in a major box store and hospital and pharmacy). If you have enough moisture it can literally blow common flooring products right off the slab. Just FYI, the flow of moisture through a slab is measured in gallons per hour. That should give you an idea of what's possible.

That said, even engineered flooring can be destroyed if too much moisture is coming through. This is why some type of moisture barrier and/or remediation is a requirement at certain levels. Likewise, depending on the type of flooring (if glue down), you must use the right kind of glue and apply as specified by the manufacturer to survive moisture. Wrong product or failure to apply as required can and does commonly result in total failure.

A good engineered flooring product really can't be beat. The new cool is LVT. But it's really about the thickness of the wear surface. This product was created to address the short comings of the other engineered flooring products. If you go this route, no matter what they tell you, put down a moisture barrier and a cushion barrier. Sometimes they have an all in one. Sometimes they sell a product which claims to be both but is really just a moisture barrier. If the LVT comes with a builtin "moisture/cushion barrier", you still want an actual lay down product, on which yours will rest. Assuming floating floor here.

Also, watch out for cost on the barriers. If you shop, you can find it much cheaper (25% of the cost or less) than most stores will sell it. IIRC, Lowes or Home Deport actually has a decent product which is much cheaper than most. But if you're not installing it, they may not allow it. Also caution here, as Lowes and Home Depot frequently sell crappy quality LVT with poor performing wear surfaces. IIRC, they might have one line each which is okay. But I'd recommend you go to a dedicated flooring store.

[–] 1 pt

So you're saying he should just throw down some hamster bedding and call it a day.

[–] 1 pt (edited )

Only if it comes with a wheel.

I'm planning on a combination of porcelain tile and LVT myself.

I really like ceramic and porcelain tile. I really like hardwood, but I've seen it go terrible too many times. All it takes is a dropped glass of water and you can be off to bad results. Even if minor.

[–] 1 pt

A human-sized hamster wheel would be a very Avant-garde statement on the nature of a subterranean TV room.

[+] [deleted] 2 pts
[–] [deleted] 2 pts

Go to every flooring store and say you are just looking until you find a big brested blonde sales woman. Then act like you don't even know what a floor is and have her explain everything to you. You probably won't remember anything but it will much less boring than a man.

[–] 0 pt

When it comes to remodeling, I want advice from old, curmudgeonly men who look like they spent 30 years hammering nails with their bare fists. Those are the ones who know what they're doing rather than some bimbo who barely knows what a hammer is.

[–] 1 pt

Stain the concrete. I have it in my family room and bedroom. Durable and beautiful. Throw rugs/area carpets for comfort, which you can change out frequently.

[–] 0 pt

They make a linoleum floor that looks like and installs like hardwood. A friend installed some, it doesn't look too bad.

I have tile, I would go with tile if I were you. Especially, if you can set it yourself.

[–] 0 pt

I can lay tile myself and actually enjoy it.

[–] 0 pt

tile with heated subfloor. how is this even a question.

[–] 1 pt

Wouldn't that require demolition of the existing concrete pad to put some type of heating coil or lines in there?

[–] 0 pt

No you can use plywood over the existing concrete and then lay tile over.

[–] 0 pt

I'm looking at replacing flooring in my kitchen due to damage from water heater leak. Most of my house laminate or LVT. The stuff is fairly thin.. maybe a 1/8th inch. It does need a moisture pad, but thats also thin.

Stone tile will be cool in the winter and will sit a little higher than the engineered wood.

I'm not sure what the difference is between LVT and laminate.

[–] 0 pt

That snap in floating floor over plastic is great. It's fake with a picture of wood on it. Goes down easy and fast. It's cheap and easily repaired.