people have no clue how difficult that is and the amount of athleticism required
To be able to read and feel a wave and stay on the board and know when to move to the nose to get just enough forward motion to keep the board moving when the wave is dieing out
She's been surfing since a little kid.
I don't care. I just want her ass on my face,
I spent 10 days on Hawaii trying every day and finally stood up after many days and it felt amazing. I was on the swim team and skateboard and snowboard... it's seriously is a very difficult sport. I probably would've been a surfer kid if I hadn't grown up in the Rockies because it's amazingly addictive once you catch that first wave.
Unless she has babies nothing she does matters
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